resin – Page 9 – Sherry Glaab

Lots to pour

I prepped six small projects over the past few weeks and have them all ready for the resin. I’ve never tried to pour this many at the same time, so we’ll see how it goes. I mixed up 12 ounces of resin and started pouring. The best advice I can give on coating the glass is not to pour too much at once. The fewer drips you have to contend with, the easier it will be to manage. Of course, that’s easier said than done.
First, I cover my work surface (I used wrapping paper over my glass cutting board, then a plastic trash bag on top of it). I used little medicine cups (about the size of Dixie cups) to elevate the pieces over the surface.

Spreading the resin I poured over the piece

I generally try to pour the resin directly onto the parts of the piece with the most layering / texture and then spread it across everything else with the sponge on a stick. I can also use my heat gun to do a bit of spreading later.

Resin poured and mostly spread – see the bubbles

After I’ve spread the resin over the entire piece, I use the heat gun to remove the bubbles and help move the resin around to fill in any empty spots.

I have 6 pieces I’m juggling at once, plus I mixed a bit too much resin, so I poured some of the excess into some coaster molds I have on standby for just such an occasion. I don’t think I’ll try to finish this many pieces at the same time again, as it was a bit stressful. Having them so close together on my work surface made it difficult to tend the resin around the edges of the pieces. I think I pulled it off, though.

Applying glass chips to the resin on the bottom piece

For some pieces, I like to add glass chips or other decorative items to the resin. Once the resin is poured and I’ve removed the bubbles with the heat gun, I try to remove any drips from the undersides of the pieces with a craft stick and then I can sprinkle the glass chips on top. The resin will move a little, so I use a craft stick to help keep the edges neat.

Running a stick around the edges to remove excess resin

It is possible to tape the undersides of the edges to more easily remove the excess resin after it cures, or to scrape drips off afterward, but I’ve found this method works best for me. I have cracked a few pieces trying to remove drips after they have cured.

Removing the excess resin from the undersides of the edges

I decided to see how the glass chips would look on a colored piece. Since I made two similar SC Flag pieces in this batch, it will be a good opportunity to compare the two effects (one with and one without glass chips).

Now I have to wait overnight for the resin to cure. We’ll see how everything turned out tomorrow!

Wrapping up a few projects

Today I put the last few touches on two Rainbow Rows and the Llama and geared up to get the resin poured on everything. I’m still not sure about the Llama – need to decide if I like it with or without the little bird (why am I obsessing over such a small detail?).

I also added several more palm fronds (leaves) to the palm trees on my two Rainbow Rows, and some grass on one and a little tulip type flower on the other. I think I’m ready to resin these, as well as the SC flag I made the other day.

I have two more blue backgrounds cut for additional SC flags, so I thought I would go ahead and cut out the trees / crescents to go on them. However, after finishing the first Palmetto tree and starting on a crescent, my saw had an orange grommet failure and that halted progress on anything that requires the saw for a few days until I can get a replacement part and (hopefully) repair it. I say hopefully because I’m hoping only the orange grommet failed and I can get away with just swapping it out – but there could be other things going on that I haven’t noticed yet. Ah, the joys of using a ring saw!

That orange grommet is supposed to be a ring, not two “C” shaped pieces, and there’s supposed to be another orange grommet next to it on the blue collar.

My saw is a Taurus 3 and is many years old. I haven’t used it regularly in recent years and I probably should just replace all the rubber parts inside. I need it for projects like the Llama and the SC flag. For most of my other projects I generally cut the glass by hand and use a grinder to shape / smooth the pieces. I was able to finish up the crescent I was working on by hand cutting and then grinding the glass.

Closeup of the unhappy grommet. The other one fell down into the water bath.

At least I can pour the resin on these projects while I wait for the replacement parts to come in the mail.

All over the place!

Today was a multitasking day. I have several projects going on at the moment: three rainbow rows (one just waiting for resin), two SC flags and an unexpected….llama? I’m also planning another resin/canvas project that will be a new area for me to pursue. So… today I glued down the SC flag I had cut out the other day:

Next I decided to try out a new stencil I got this week. I have not used stencils before, so this is a new direction. I’m going to try painting the flag design on the glass and then coating it in resin. I think it will take several coats of paint, though.

Using the stencil and pearly white acrylic paint on glass

Next, I needed to glue down the tree trunks, windows and doors on these two Rainbow Rows as well as fill in the palmetto leaves / fronds. These two have one more house than my first two because I had a longer piece of backer glass. I got all of those glued in place this afternoon:

Filling in the details on two new Rainbow Rows – trees might need some more leaves.

Finally, I had a request from a friend to make a Llama….with purple. Hmm. I have a couple of different shades of purple glass, and she chose the darker shade. In the meantime, I googled pictures of Llamas, printed one out and traced it onto some white glass. I coated the marker lines with mark stay because I needed to use the saw for this level of detail.

First I cut the Llama out, then I went back and made the “fluff” around the edges of the Llama with a second pass with the saw. My friend indicated that she likes lots of colors, so this Llama is going to have some spots. Tomorrow I hope to be ready to glue him / her to the purple art glass background and then I’ll have several items ready for resin.

If I ever make another Llama, I think I will make the spots fuzzy like the outer edges of the Llama. I already glued these spots in place, but I may try to pry them off tomorrow and fluff them up a bit.

SC Flag panel

Today I did some cleanup in my work area (vacuuming, organizing, etc) in preparation for a new project I’ve been thinking about doing for the past several months. I’m going to make a small (approximately 6″x6″) version of the South Carolina flag. Yesterday I went through my glass and selected some blue for the background, then cut it into squares. I also printed out some pictures of the flag I’ve used for past projects in the right size and laid things out.

I was able to cut four squares, between 5-6.5″ each, from this one sheet of glass. Then I traced the outline of the Palmetto tree and crescent onto the background piece. Next I used my mosaic nippers to cut a large selection of tiny pieces of white glass from some scrap glass I have on hand. Then I set about arranging them into the image.

Somehow this didn’t look the way I had envisioned. In the past, I’ve used my glass saw to make the Palmetto and crescent for other mosaics. Looking around my work area, I wondered why I haven’t been using my saw for the past few years. I basically have been using it as a surface on which to store my measuring cups and mix my resin. So I decided to move all of that aside and clean up my old saw. At one point I was using it so often that I became pretty much an expert at repairing things when parts broke or wore out on the saw. I was a bit concerned that there was something broken because I haven’t used it in so long.

I cleaned it out and put some water in the basin and flipped the switch – hurrah! It worked! I then traced the pattern onto some scrap glass, cut it down a bit manually and added some mark stay over the lines I drew. Mark stay is basically a chapstick like substance that helps the lines stay in place while sawing (it is very wet and the marker lines wash away otherwise).

I cut out the basic outline and cleaned up the glass, then went for another pass to add some detail.

Then it was time to see how it looked on the blue background. I think I could make the crescent a bit skinnier.

Which one do you like better? I still have to glue the pieces in place, then pour and embellish the resin coating. That will happen another day.

A note on the SC Flag – many who don’t know the history of the flag think that the crescent is a moon. It’s not. Here’s an excerpt from Wikipedia:

In 1775, Colonel William Moultrie was asked by the Revolutionary Council of Safety to design a flag for the South Carolina troops to use during the American Revolutionary War. Moultrie’s design had the blue of the militia’s uniforms and the crescent. It was first flown at Fort Johnson.[1] This flag was flown in the defense of a new fortress on Sullivan’s Island, when Moultrie faced off against a British fleet that had not lost a battle in a century.

However, there is much debate about the significance of the crescent. In his memoirs, Colonel William Moultrie tells us: “A little time after we were in possession of Fort Johnson, it was thought necessary to have a flag for the purpose of signals: (as there was no national or state flag at that time) I was desired by the council of safety to have one made, upon which, as the state troops were clothed in blue, and the fort was garrisoned by the first and second regiments, who wore a silver crescent on the front of their caps; I had a large blue flag made with a crescent in the dexter corner, to be in uniform with the troops …” In the 16-hour battle on June 28, 1776, the flag was shot down, but Sergeant William Jasper ran out into the open, raising it and rallying the troops until it could be mounted again”. This gesture was so heroic, saving Charleston, South Carolina, from conquest for four years, that the flag came to be the symbol of the Revolution, and liberty, in the state and the new nation.

Soon popularly known as either the Liberty Flag or Moultrie Flag, it became the standard of the South Carolinian militia, and was presented in Charleston, by Major General Nathanael Greene, when that city was liberated at the end of the war. Greene described it as having been the first American flag to fly over the South.

Sunset – done!

Sunset – stained and dichroic glass coated with resin and glass chips. Approximately 30″ x 13.5″. This piece has many different looks depending on the ambient lighting. All of the below photos are of the same mosaic in different lighting conditions.

Sunset – view 1 (indoor ambient daylight)

Sunset – view 3 (indoor, bright overhead lights)

Sunset – view 4 (indoor, ambient daylight / angle)

Rainbow Row – done!

After curing overnight, Rainbow Row was ready to shine! Stained glass coated with resin and glass chips. 13.25″ x 4.5″

Pouring resin

Today was the day to pour resin on the Rainbow Row / Sunset mosaics. I originally planned to do all three, but at the last minute I decided to make one of the Rainbow Rows “hangable” and affixed hardware for that purpose to the back of the piece, so I couldn’t really pour the resin on it today (need to give the adhesive time to cure). I used E6000 glue for the hardware, but I will also coat it with resin later. I started off by mixing my 400 ml of resin. It was 69 degrees in my work area, so I warmed the two parts a bit with my heat gun before mixing them.

Gluing the hardware on the back of one Rainbow Row

I used a piece of scrap glass to prop up the hardware while I waited for the glue to set.

Next I used some scrap glass as “shims” to level the sunset mosaic. This is important so the resin isn’t uneven.

Once everything was level, I poured the resin all over the piece and spread it using a sponge on a stick. Once the resin was pretty much evenly distributed, I used the heat gun to remove bubbles and move it around for even coverage.

Next, I did the same with the Rainbow Row piece. It is much smaller and unframed, so I used much less resin and relied on spreading it. This helps reduce the amount that drips over the edges, as well.

Once the resin was coating all of the surfaces, I sprinkled some clear glass chips around the edges for sparkle and interest. Then, for the next 30 or so minutes, I used a craft stick to scrape excess resin from the edges and underside of the piece. This has to be repeated as needed until the resin sets up enough to stop moving. Any that I miss can be removed afterward, but it is *much* easier to do it now. I have also cracked a few finished pieces trying to remove the drips in the past, so I spend the time up front in order to avoid the scraping later.

Scraping drips from the underside edges with a craft stick

I also sprinkled some clear glass chips around the very edges of the sun’s rays adjacent to the frame. I did this to reduce the jagged appearance of the edges of the mosaic.

One thing I should have anticipated, but didn’t, is that there were bubbles in the resin that I couldn’t get to under the waves. This was due to the layering of the glass for this part of the piece. In the future, I will have to consider pouring the resin on the first layer, then adding the additional layers afterward. This will be a bit tricky due to the timing involved, but should reduce the bubble issues. Luckily these bubbles are part of the churning sea, so they aren’t as bad as they would be if they were in another area.

During this time, I also use the heat gun to remove surface bubbles on both pieces. This has to be done until the resin is somewhat solidified.

Waiting for the resin to cure on the sunset

Waiting for the resin to cure on Rainbow Row

Now we wait! Tomorrow I should be able to get some better photos (and clean up my work area).

Almost ready for resin

I had a few errant pieces of glass to glue in place today, but I was able to get a nice snapshot of how the mosaic will look in reflective light (in the evening). I’m really pleased with the look. The neat thing about the dichroic glass is your mosaic has two looks – the evening / night look (1st photo) and the daytime / bright sun look (2nd & 3rd photos). Even though I still have to pour the resin, I’m really happy with how this piece is shaping up.

Glass in place, no resin yet – reflective light

Glass in place, bright light, no resin yet (angle 1)

*Glass in place, bright light, no resin yet (angle 2)*

More waves

I was able to make a few more waves Tuesday, but managed to really slice one of my fingers while grinding the glass, so I didn’t get as much done as I had planned. Today my finger is feeling better and I was able to make some more waves (this time I was smart and covered my fingers with band aids before I ground the glass for the waves).

I was able to fill in quite a bit of detail on the sea / waves after all. My next step is to wait for the mosaic adhesive to dry, then I will be able to hold the entire window up to a light source to check for areas I want to augment. My light tray only covers about a third of the window at a time and I need to see “the big picture”.

Once I’ve seen the fully lit window, I’ll be able to plan the finishing steps, which will be pouring the resin coating and then decorating some areas of the resin with glass chips / frit. That’s the part I still need to plan. I’m also considering adding a layer of glass around the edges of the sun’s rays (adjacent to the frame), though I haven’t figured out exactly what yet.

Making Waves

I spent most of the day Monday working on gluing down the pieces I had already cut for the rays of the sun, and making waves to start layering the ocean below the sun. First I rough cut some waves, then used my grinder to shape and smooth the edges.

Ready to grind the glass pieces for the 2nd layer of waves

After I got the above pieces ready, I realized that I would need to glue the dichroic glass I had cut and laid out for the suns rays before I started working on the layering for the waves, so I set out to do that.

How the waves / rays looked when I started the day’s work

Using Mac mosaic adhesive and a small paint brush, I spread a thin layer of adhesive onto each piece and then position it where I want it. I already did this step for the main ball of the sun and the first layer of waves last week.

Using a light tray to help me see what I was doing, I worked one row at a time from the inner row to the outer edges. I decided to place the pieces a bit closer together than I previously had them laid out, so I had to rearrange some and also cut quite a few more squares.

Once I had all of the rays glued down, including the smaller filler pieces at the edges, I started gluing the second layer of waves in place.

I will need to make quite a few more waves, but I at least got a start on them today. Gluing the rays in place took most of the day. I really want the mosaic adhesive on the rays to have plenty of time to cure before I pour the resin, otherwise they will be cloudy.

How everything looked at the end of today (light tray powered off)

Snapshot with the flash on my camera (phone)

Hopefully I’ll have time on Tuesday to put some additional waves in place. I also need to plan how / if I will embellish the resin when I pour it. I think I would like to do something at least around the edges of the frame.